Rufford Old Hall

Last Sunday was forecast to be a rainless day, a rarity in an early spring which has so far been the worst I can remember. Not since the 2018 visitation of ‘the beast from the east’ has there been such a succession of storms, sleet, hail, heavy rain and fierce winds well into April. With pleasant days few and far between of late, we decided to make the most if it and get out and about.

A half hour drive through charming rural west Lancashire took us to Rufford Old Hall, a sixteenth century manor house originally built by Sir Robert Hesketh, illegitimate son but legitimate heir to an estate and title more than seven generations old. The Hesketh family held the title of lords of manor of Rufford from the fifteenth century until 1936, when the Hall and many artefacts and items of furniture were donated to the National Trust.

In 1798 Rufford New Hall was built nearby and became the swankier, modern Hesketh family abode. Directed by Google, we initially pulled up at the New Hall, immediately realising this was not the place we were looking for, but driving into the grounds anyway to see if there was a way through. Two Burberry-clad ladies in posh green wellies stood chatting near to a row of garages and did not look too pleased to see us. It transpired that the New Hall, now luxury apartments, was their home and we were two of many lost visitors who regularly wound up on their very exclusive grounds and that they were ” ****ing sick of it.” We apologised, blamed Google and drove away, though not before being advised to tell “your mates” to get their directions right. Back on the road, we laughed, having been reminded of our place in the world by the very classy, monied folk at the New Hall.

The cobbled courtyard, which became very busy later in the day

National Trust properties tend to have a standard visitor admission fee of £12, which seems quite expensive but on closer consideration is good value for the essential preservation work that’s carried out annually and the generally very positive visitor experience. Though relatively small, Rufford Old Hall was one of the best maintained properties of the many we have visited. We both commented on how airy and clean it smelt and felt, no hint of damp, mildew or dust anywhere.

Entrance to the 19th century gardens
The Great Hall from the gardens

The house had originally been designed to an H plan, but only the Great Hall and East wing (rebuilt in the 18th century as an accommodation block) remain, the west wing having been left to disrepair and eventually demolished.

We made our way through the downstairs rooms where guides were on hand to answer questions (and to make sure nobody was taking forbidden photos). Because photography is only permitted in the Great Hall, I can’t share images of the four or five other ground floor rooms. It was explained that the photography ban was because many of the artefacts and paintings were only on loan to the Trust and, contractually, could not be photographed. The contents of the Great Hall, on the other hand, are the Trust’s property, so visitors are free to snap away.

The framed diagram labels all of the component parts of a suit of armour. Who would have thought each was called something different?
Sad and at the same time sinister
Chanfron for protecting a horse’s head. Poor horse!

An impressive range of armour and weapons adorned the fireplace wall. The not-so-cosy-looking fireside chairs are solid oak and original to the property, like everything in the room. Signage here is friendly, asking the curious and tactile amongst us to ‘try not to touch’, realising that we may find it hard to resist, though some delicate objects are strictly off limits. Sitting on some of the more robust chairs was also allowed.

Storage cabinet from 1670- made to last!
Sideboard with interesting engravings

This serpent imagery recurred in various objects and is a variation on similar fantastical sea-creature imagery from the period that I have seen in other Tudor properties.

Below is the impressive movable screen, a three tonne, ornately engraved wooden room divider. It is never moved now, as it is much too heavy and would probably sustain damage. Deliberate mistakes were made in the design, including a missing finger on the hand of one of the engraved figures, as acknowledgment that only God can create perfection.

One of the volunteers plays the lute for visitors.

The serpent image appears again in this stained glass window. Can you also see the Manx triskelion (three legs), an ancient symbol depicting movement?

Water pump
Horse drinking trough

The gardens at Rufford are small but pretty and well-kept and well worth a stroll around. The Leeds and Liverpool canal runs alongside, offering long and scenic walks and a chance to admire the colourful boats moored along the towpath.

Can’t get more free range than that

Our walk took us past the nearby church and to a friendly little brasserie where we enjoyed afternoon tea before walking slowly back to the car park for the drive home. It felt like spring should feel, and the bluebells nodded in agreement.